Why custom?

Frequently, we’re asked why someone might choose a custom made suit rather than simply buying one off the rack. Many people fill their closets with ready-to-wear clothing, and there’s nothing wrong with that. However, that can potentially mean settling for a poorly fitted item or generic, mass-produced style that doesn’t reflect the real you. A wedding suit shouldn’t compromise your vision for the big day; an executive should project an image of authority and success. And nobody should have to wear anything that just doesn’t fit right. Which of these compelling reasons to go custom apply to you?

Examples of several lapel options

• Flexibility. Department stores have limited space on their racks. Warehouses can hold a lot more, but that’s finite too. Brands have to create collections that appeal to the masses if they want to make a profit. All that is to say, no one in the industry is really thinking about what you want to wear. Imagine trying on a jacket that you like well enough, but asking for it in a lighter shade of blue, with more pockets, and maybe a matching vest. In a retail shop, the answer is “no.” For us, it’s “no problem.”

• Personalization. Custom clothing gives you dozens of ways to make it your own. Buttonholes can be accented in your favorite color. A monogram on the lining lets everyone know that this jacket belongs to “The Wolf,” while another monogram hidden under the collar reveals an inside joke. Printed linings highlight your passion for poker, or vintage Corvettes, or espresso, or hummingbirds, or comic books, or…

• Affirmation. Most suits are made for male bodies, but not everyone has one of those. Custom suits can be cut with any combination of features, allowing for expression anywhere on the spectrum from traditionally masculine, to feminine, or somewhere in between. And since each dimension is based on the actual measurements of your body, your clothing will fit the way you want it to.

• Convenience. Shopping is a hassle. Browsing rack after rack, visiting store after store, all with no guarantee you’ll even find anything you like. Add the hassle of long checkout lines, inexperienced or pushy salespeople, and crowded stores playing loud, crappy music. Shopping online might sound more appealing, but that comes with its own set of problems. Instead, book a fitting in the comfort of your home or office and let expert stylists guide you through the process of designing your own custom wardrobe. Shop on your terms, whether you’d rather speed through and get it over with, or take the time to explore all the possibilities. Your measurements are saved forever, making the next order even easier. 

• Perfect fit. Off the rack sizes are based on averages, but where does that leave those of us who aren’t quite average? A tailor can make some basic alterations, like shortening the sleeves or taking in the waistband, but there are some unforgiving limitations on how much can be done. Custom clothing starts with nothing more than a measuring tape. By adjusting the pattern before the cloth is cut and assembled, we have far more control over the finished product. There are two dozen body measurements taken, along with about 45 potential modifications to be made for posture, shape, slope, and other physical quirks.

• Sustainability. One hundred billion pieces of clothing are produced each year; 30% of them are never sold and end up in landfills. Fast fashion has a major environmental impact, churning out trendy, poorly made clothes that won’t last long. Custom clothing, on the other hand, is made one piece at a time for each customer. Slow fashion. Nothing exists until you decide to order it. Every step in the process–fabric weaving, pattern cutting, sewing, transportation, delivery–minimizes waste. Higher quality garments are made from natural fibers like wool, linen, or cashmere instead of petroleum-based synthetics like polyester, so they last longer and are biodegradable at the eventual end of their usefulness. Well made custom clothing is likely to stay in your wardrobe for years to come, followed by a second life in a vintage shop to be loved by a new owner.

• Craftsmanship. Many of the factors that make custom clothing more sustainable are a

  direct result of their higher level of quality. Suits are tailored the traditional way by skilled artisans who take pride in their work. More than thirty hours of handwork go into each suit. Sleeves and collars are sewn to the body by hand, ensuring that the placement is ideal and the stitching allows just the right amount of movement. The lapels are basted and shaped by hand for the perfect roll. A floating full canvas construction provides structure for the jacket and will break in over time, gradually molding to the wearer’s body for an even better fit. 

Everyone can find benefits from custom clothing; once you’ve experienced the difference it’s hard to go back to shopping off the rack. It’s also not as extravagant as it seems. The price is generally similar to clothing from specialty shops or department stores. Instead of paying a premium for a designer label, your money gets you better quality, better fit, and the ability to actually get what you want (rather than what some corporate marketing department tells you that you should want.) Custom clothing isn't just for a special occasion, or for someone pickier, wealthier, more stylish. In reality, it’s far more accessible–and enjoyable–than you’d think.