A Practical Guide to Dress Codes

When an event invitation shows up in the mailbox, the first few decisions are pretty simple. Either RSVP “yes” or send your regrets, choose the chicken or the fish, and check the box if you’re bringing a plus-one. The next decision might be trickier: what are you going to wear?

Usually invitations will state the dress code, which ought to be very helpful, but dress codes are often ironically ambiguous. The trouble is, some of these points of etiquette that were widely known decades ago have gotten fuzzier and our usual ways of dressing have become less formal. Until about the 1960s, it was quite common to wear a tuxedo out to dinner (and even at home, if you were entertaining company), since that’s an evening engagement and a tux is evening wear. Many restaurants, clubs, and theaters wouldn’t let patrons in without a suit and tie. That’s obviously rare nowadays, especially here in Seattle where dressing up just means putting on your nicest Patagonia jacket. But showing up underdressed is embarrassing and suggests a lack of respect for the host, so it’s well worth the effort to make sure your outfit is appropriate for the occasion. 

A couple pedantic notes to get out of the way: the following definitions are in line with how dress codes are viewed in the United States in 2025. Generally speaking, this is less strict than in the past or even in much of modern Europe. Second, there are many equivalents or substitutes in different cultures or for specific groups, such as the clergy or military. 

White tie: The most formal possible dress code, one which is very rarely called for. The odds are good that a king or president is in attendance at such an event, which might be a state dinner or a royal wedding. The rules for white tie are strict: for men, a black tailcoat and trousers trimmed in black silk, a white wing collared shirt, white silk vest and bow tie, black patent leather shoes, and a black top hat. White gloves are optional, but you might as well go all in. For women, an elegant ball gown is expected to be worn with elbow-length gloves and tasteful jewelry, maybe a tiara if you have one handy.

White tie, left. Black tie, center and right.

Black tie: The modern tuxedo was developed in the late 19th century as a “semi-formal” alternative to the full dress discussed above. For all intents and purposes, black tie is the most formal dress code these days. This calls for a tuxedo, traditionally either black or dark navy. The tux should have either peak lapels or a shawl collar faced in satin, with satin-covered buttons and a stripe down the side of the trousers. The shirt is white with French cuffs. Other shirt details can vary, like a spread or wing collar, studs or covered buttons on the placket, and either a bib front or plain fabric. The bow tie–never a neck tie–should match the satin on the lapels. Patent leather oxford shoes are most popular, but loafers in patent or velvet are also fine. For women, a long evening gown or ball gown would be proper.

If wearing a tuxedo is impossible, a black suit with a white dress shirt and black tie or bow tie is usually acceptable in a pinch. Anything less than that is a faux pas. A black tie affair is meant to evoke grandeur and sophistication, so it’s worth making the effort to adhere to tradition in the spirit of the occasion.

Creative black tie: The last paragraph notwithstanding, black tie events aren’t always so serious. Something like an awards gala or charity ball might specify a more festive variation. This is a chance to play around with unique accessories, shoes, colors, fabrics, patterns–all within the basic template of a tuxedo. Have some fun with it! A classic black tux is still perfectly appropriate, but so is a tuxedo made in a different color, pattern, or cut. A black tux jacket can also simply be swapped for a dinner jacket in colorful velvet or a jacquard silk, worn with the rest of the usual tux accoutrements.

Black tie optional or Formal: If you have a tux, wear it. If not, a black suit is the next best option, followed by a dark navy or charcoal suit. Wear a white shirt, ideally with French cuffs, and a dark tie or bow tie. The goal here is to blend in with other guests in tuxedos. Unlike a creative black tie dress code, avoid brighter colors and flashy accessories.

Semi-formal or business formal: It’s confusing that “formal” and “semi-formal” are often used interchangeably. Even worse, “semi-formal” can be used to mean almost anything, from chinos and a sport coat all the way up to a black suit. Traditionally, “formal” meant white tie and “semi-formal” meant a tuxedo, but in modern usage the idea of a tux being a more relaxed alternative seems absurd. Realistically, a host who expects tuxedos will specify “black tie” on the invitation. Try to use context to determine what “semi-formal” means for a specific event, or reach out to the host or other attendees if possible. When in doubt, being overdressed is the better option.   

A business formal dress code suggests a suit, dress shirt, and tie in relatively conservative colors or patterns. Navy or charcoal suits would be go-to options, ideally solid colored or with a subtle pattern. The shirt should typically be white, light blue, or cream, again solid or slightly textured. The tie choice is open to personal preference, but it’s probably not the time to pull a yellow paisley out of the closet. Finish the look with socks that match your trousers and black or brown shoes.

Cocktail attire: This is the most flexible dress code, as well as the best chance to show off your personal style. A suit in virtually any color, pattern, or fabric works. Use the dress shirt and tie to add visual interest, or switch them out for a sweater, polo, or even t-shirt to layer in a contrasting texture. Sport coat and trouser looks are another option. If you go that route, avoid denim or chinos in favor of wool trousers to elevate the level of formality. Feel free to add some flair with accessories.

There are a number of nonstandard dress codes that pop up now and then, usually to convey a hyper-specific theme and a sense of manufactured whimsy. “Resort Formal,” “Alpine Chic,” “Festive Attire,” and others are essentially just variations of cocktail attire adapted to the venue or event theme. For example, a garden wedding might call for springtime pastels, a linen suit, and a floral print tie.

Business/dressy/elevated/smart casual: There are several synonymous dress codes at this level, but here’s a good rule of thumb: the word “casual” preceded by any other word means “not too casual.” A sport coat is ideal but not strictly necessary. Dark, undistressed denim is at the low end of the spectrum, followed by chinos in the middle and wool trousers at the top. Go for a button-up shirt in any pattern or color, a polo, or a sweater. Loafers or leather low-profile sneakers are best, but you might also get away with a fashionable athletic shoe for a more youthful vibe.

Casual: The casual dress code is a trap. No host actually wants their guests showing up in sweatpants and graphic tees. Even if an invitation sets a casual dress code, assume that photos of you will end up on social media and don’t wear anything that you’d be embarrassed to be seen in. The safest bet is to set your baseline at business casual and never look back.